Rome to Nice - Day 1 : It's like riding a bike

DAY 1 was finally here. Months and months of planning, talking, mapping, realizing that the original trip was too aggressive, changing locations, remapping, replanning, more talking, training, travelling, getting the bikes, packing the bikes and now we are at the precipice of pedaling our first pedal to kick off on our 3rd trip together. It has been 5 years since our last trip together and 3 years since I last went on a cycling trip. I'm sure the multiple breakfast macchiatos, pastries and Italian meats contributed to the cycling energy flowing through me this morning and the anticipation to start riding was palpable! 

Now before we get into the details of day 1, lets quickly do a recap of the day's specifics, and a reminder of the larger trip's planned itinerary. The actual 7 days of riding after we were done actually worked out a bit shorter in miles and elevation than we had planned for. This is always a good thing. The difference in planned versus actual distances/elevations are most likely due to:

1. Variations in how routing tools calculate. As an example - after we would plot out a day in either komoot.com plotaroute.com or even google, we would compare the same exact route's measurements in all 3 systems. There would always be a substantial difference in the values in at least one of the 3 systems. plotaroutes elevations just couldn't be trusted as an example. 
2. Us trying to "flatten the curve" whenever we could - translates into us making decisions along the way to see if we could shave off some miles and elevations. Doing this always makes the trip a bit more enjoyable and more time to explore.  

The below is the itinerary of the full trip. Day 1 sees us exiting Rome, cycling through Vatican City, which is the world's smallest country, I did know that tidbit before I planned the trip, what I did not know was that Monaco was the world's second smallest country which we would hit on our last day after finishing up in Nice, France. 

Planned Trip Itinerary

So now that we have the recap done, let's get to day 1.
 

First... the daily stats!

Ride Statistics
Date ....................... Saturday April 22rd 2023

Departure City/Town ........ Rome, Italy
Departure Time ............. 8:00AM Central European Time[CET]
Departure Temperature ...... 68f
Time in  Motion ............ 7:57:39
Arrival City/Town .......... Lido di Tarquinia, Italy
Arrival Time ............... 4:56PM CET
Arrival Temperature ........ 70f

Total Miles Cycled ......... 66 mi
Total Elevation ............ 1683 ft

Tour Statistics
Total Miles Cycled ......... 66 mi 
Total Elevation ............ 1683 ft

Elevations looking pretty good

The start of the ride was to head out of Rome, hitting most of our elevations before we exit the city and then cruising to the coast and heading north.

meat, cheese, pastry ... repeat

Now there were always 3 constants each day before we even started pedaling our first pedal. #1 - we all met for breakfast. Like I said in a previous post, every hotel offered a complimentary breakfast. This was all apart of the planning. HIGHLY recommended.

#2 - we had to pack our bikes for the day ahead. This entailed usually restrapping the bags to the bike every day. Especially if the bikes were in a garage/basement etc. A few days we got lucky and had the bikes with us in our rooms/terraces and could leave the bags strapped on and just remove what we needed.

As you can imagine, it did get tiring to restrap every day. Besides clothing, some tools, and paraphernalia, food and snacks were essential. A lot of times some packaged breakfast items would make it into the bags for the ride ahead.

Locked and loaded for the day ahead

and #3 - we always took a team picture before we started out. We also tried to finish every day with a team picture as well. Sometimes because we were tired and just ready to get off the bikes, and check into the hotel, we would forget to snap a picture.

team pic with flag of Italy.... check
rookie mistake to not hold down the corner!

Now that the day's constants were completed we headed out of the city. It was a bit surreal cycling through the streets wanting to hit the coast, but then realizing we are passing monuments that have been standing here for over 1900 years. Really humbling and amazing - and added to the excitement. 

So we make it to Vatican City pretty quickly -  had to be the first 30 minutes into the trip and we snapped a few pics with the flag. With all the cycling trips i have so many flags! If anyone has a suggestion on what to do with them all - please drop a comment.

columns of Vatican City

So we are cycling out of the city, make it over the main climb for the day and coast to the coast. We were on the SS1 for a good part of the day - which we normally don't like to do when we plan our trips. We usually route ourselves over small parallel roads, cycle lanes, a lot of times farm roads. You just get a better experience, less cars, better views.

The Strada Statale 1 Via Aurelia (SS 1) is a historic trade route running along the Italian coastline from central Italy to southern France. It just so happens that this is an old Roman road which we would criss cross throughout the trip. For the most part, the views were nice - especially the further from Rome we travelled.

good example of a smaller road - and two lunatics. My dad looks like he saw a ghost.

At one point we were passing a giant fort - we didn't stop, but I did have the thought that this must be "something cool" from the looks of it. So i told Shruti to keep cycling and I'm going to take a quick detour, photograph it and catch you guys. It turns out it was built in the 1500s by Michaelangelo! And the Italian armed forces still use it today! Grabbed the below from the web. 

Fort Michelangelo - Just amazing.

Fort Michelangelo was built in the 16th century to defend the port of Civitavecchia from the constant incursions from pirates, something that the city had been subjected to since the 15th century and which had resulted in it being subjected to looting, fires and massacres. 

Built under the direction of Michelangelo Buonarroti - who the fortress was namedgoog_1191016351 after – it was commissioned by Giulio II della Rovere who becaII in 1502 and who laid the first stone on 14th December 1508.

So the remainder of the day is great. Nice roads and we roll into the hotel before 5pm. One mistake I think we made was not taking one more coffee stop sometime in the afternoon. We kinda powered on from lunch to the end - we were feeling a bit tired towards 3/4pm and a coffee would have made the last bit fly by and we definitely had 30mins in the schedule. We learned our lesson and started putting an afternoon break into the schedule.

COFFEE CHECK!!

I'm embarrassed to say - I didnt know
one Cannoli was a Cannolo The guy behind
the counter corrected me twice before
i understood what the hell
he was saying :) #italianshame

So you may be thinking what madness is this? Well on each trip we usually keep track of some weird statistic. In India we kept track of the different animals we saw, maybe even the sodas per day - I forget, but it is a fun little thing we do. So being in Italy, what better thing to keep track of than the number of coffees we had per day.

Running coffee count. 

	4/22	4/23	4/24	4/25	4/26	4/27	4/28	4/29	Total
Matteo	3								3
Shrutini	2								2
Stefano	5								5
il Drafto	5								5
Total	15								15

That's it for day1, passed through the world's tiniest country, had some nice roads, ate way too much food, no one got hurt, no flats and finished in the sun.

Andiamo day 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The first gear casualty of the trip. RIP handlebar snack bag you served us well

Day 1's and the trip's first coffee stop #bearpawbegins

views from the road were great

We were on the SS1 for a good part of the ride on Day 1

Alternating green and white - Shruts had to have a mouth full of potato pizza #indianchipmunk

I can't unsee the alternating green and white - end of Day 1 pic!

My first aperol spritz - pretty good - lounging by the pool. Matty needs shorter shorts.
I order a drink and get 75 types of chips... keep em comin Giovanni!!

My mouth has to be full of risotto & dad proudly/strangely showing his bowl of food. #americanchipmunk #foodshowandtell

Rome to Nice - Day 0 : When in Rome

Day 0s are tricky and essential to starting a cycling trip off right. This is my 6th day 0 and I have to say that this one could be the best of the 6.

So what is a day 0? The way I look at it, a day 0 is the travel/operational day that you use to prepare in country or whatever location you are at to get ready for the upcoming adventure. Day 0s can include - getting to the locale, getting the bike or assembling if you brought it, checking into a hotel, getting a local SIM if you need it, grabbing some local currency, seeing any sites that you can etc. When I went on my solo trip in 2019 across Spain and Portugal, I made a big day 0 faux pas. I planned on cycling 60miles after an overnight flight heading from the airport to my first destination. I didn't sleep on the plane, my bike box took an hour to come out, some of the roads I had routed in Madrid were closed, i didn't start until noon because of the flight... it was an absolute suffer fest. Never again would i cycle more than 20miles on a day 0. 

So why was this Day 0 so good? Let's take a look at some key factors.

Travel

First off, we all got there on time. Two riders getting there on Thursday and two on Friday. No real delays, problems or missing visas! 

Getting to and from a location is probably one of the biggest stress factors of the whole trip. Once you are in location and settled with the bike - everything else is cream cheese. Dad and I opted for a taxi ride to the hotel while Matt chose to be a bit more adventurous and took a train over. Shrutini I think walked with no SIM Connection. I'm not sure exactly how she made it - but she was there in one piece before we got there.

Equipment

Equipment can be a bit tricky especially on a bike trip. Equipment to me consists of everything you are going to use on the trip, from the bicycle to the lights, to the charging station, wires you are going to need to charge the electronics, potentially packing material to transport the bike back home or rental bike back to the drop off point, cable ties, rope, SIM card, phone, and even a spare phone! Yes, one time I had to go to my spare phone and it was a life saver, tools, spare tubes, spare bike parts... there are so many bits and pieces of equipment it gets overwhelming and if you don't plan appropriately it can get very heavy to carry and potentially trip complicating if you don't have the right tool at the right moment. So this aspect of the trip is learned with experience and situational on where you are going. If you are going to an isolated part of the world, it would probably be better to bring a lot of backup equipment and cut a few miles from your daily trip. If you are in a populated area, that has bike shops, maybe you don't need to bring so many spare tubes and can replenish as needed.

Matt's professional
presentation

This trip I feel like as a team we learned from previous trips and tried to scale down what we brought, forecasted obstacles that could possibly manifest themselves throughout the trip and tried to plan[ and backup plan ] accordingly. All of us brought the appropriate amount of clothes [ except for Matt who brings only paper pants and is impervious to cold - I think he is either a lizard man or has lava for blood ], we all had our charging equipment, lights etc.

A few of us brought spare pumps, Shrutini bought 4 extra tubs from India's finest online merchant - and we had 4 from the bike shop giving us 8 in total. The previous bike trip in Spain we had about 8 flats and had to stop at a shop to get a few more tubes- wouldn't you know it we were fully prepared and had 0 flats during the whole trip!! More on this later.

Shrutini's documented gear - cat not included

BICYCLES - So this time around we chose to rent bikes. I went through them in the previous post - so i'm not going to spend too much time reviewing the specs on them in this post. I will say since this is being written after the trip is over, the bikes were good, however the seats were TERRIBLE! Day 1 first half, everything was comfy, once day 2 hit - ugh, so uncomfortable. The brakes were great, the gearing was excellent - front and back worked flawlessly, the tires were indestructible, the bike was not overly heavy, the bikeshop took off the fenders like we asked to reduce the weight of the bike - bars could have been a little more comfortable - like having bar ends for more hand positions, but overall they were good. The bikes also had front and rear lights - could have done without the set up as we all had our own lights and maybe saved some weight, but it was fine. The other thing that we eventually all left behind in Massa was the D-Locks. They weighed about 10lbs each! Mistake bringing those the first 4 days. Will get to that story on Day 6!

CONNECTIVITY -  when you are on a modern bicycle trip you have to stay connected. Either a global/roaming plan or you have to buy a SIM card in the country you are going to. Every country I have gone to requires a passport to buy a SIM. I'm guessing it is because of terrorism/criminal activity they want to make sure they know who is using each SIM. So in India, Spain and Portugal - SIM cards were cheap and so easy to get. In India we had purchased them before i got there, in Spain we went to an electronics shop and it was about 20 Euro. In Portugal, one time i was able to buy it on the airplane for 10euros!! It was awesome stepping off the plane and all connected. And then another time in Portugal I bought one in the airport for 10 euros. My advice to anyone that needs a SIM in Italy - either go with your roaming, or buy it in the city, DO NOT buy it at the airport. It will cost you about double what you would find it for in a local phone shop. The carrier TIM seemed to be the most popular. I used Vodafone in Spain/Portugal which were great.

It would be interesting to see if you could do a trip with no cellular connectivity - and either opt for downloaded maps to your device OR even more old school with paper maps! what about no maps and just a compass!

Food [ isn't this the most important ]: So I finally had my first Italian coffee - and over the full trip I had almost 40!! about 30 during the biking portion of the trip. The results on Day 0, the coffee was good. Not mind blowing and i think that was down to me ordering a cafe latte. I learned over the trip that I enjoyed a few different types of coffee better.

My first Italian coffee EVER!
Was ok - pizza was amazing though

The pizza and fish dishes were just awesome that first day. First lunch was good, second lunch was good and dinner was great. I had pizza in Rome one time back in 2002, last time i was there. it was just outside vatican city and i remember it being so so. This trip and especially on day 0, we had great pizza everywhere... well almost every where. One spot later in the trip was terrible!

The Gelato we had on day 0 just couldn't be beat. It was everything you imagine Gelato to be ... and more! 🍦

Me and Shrutini had full mouths of food! She hid it better than me

Best Gelato of the whole trip was found on day 0 

Looking back - I should have eaten even more pastries and just stuffed it in

I swear I must have had my mouth full of octopus and potato

hotel Laurentia bfast spread

Lodging : We stayed at the Hotel Laurentia which was nice, had a pretty good breakfast included, was relatively close to where we needed to get the rental bikes and central to Rome so we could see a few sites. One of the most important decisions of our trip was going for full fledged hotels instead of airbnbs like we had in Spain. Having your own shower, not having to struggle to meet for a key which led to another daily coordination and having clean sheets and free breakfasts every morning was just fantastic. I will never do another airbnb on a bike trip ever again! Take my money booking.com!

Extras!!!

What do I mean by extras? Basically anything extra that we did which was fun and unexpected outside of those basic day 0 items we HAD to do - like bike pickup, sim card, hotel check in etc. Day 0 ticked a ton of boxes for me personally when it comes to extras. Multiple great meals, Matt forced us on to escooters, we went to Decathlon, checked out multiple sites,had multiple good meals, had our first chinotto and made an emergency stop at an Italian optometrist to get dad a set of reading glasses and eat half his candy bowl! The escooters were a huge surprise. I was a bit wary and didnt want anyone to get killed before the trip as we zipped in and out of Roman traffic. Thankfully everyone became a scooter pro and we were able to zip back and forth to Decathlon and pick up some water bottles, presents and energy gummies. Matt def pushed me out of my comfort zone in this one - glad he shamed me into doing it. 

One extra I could have done without was dad taking a flop when he got his tire stuck in a tramline groove. Thankfully just some bruising and shaking of the heads. 

So to sum it up - mission overly accomplished on day 0. Well fed, well prepared and ready to start the trip!

Next up day 1!!! 

Andiamo!!!!

eScooters yooooooooooo

Colosseum was cool - last time i saw it was 2002, hasn't changed a bit :)

Trevi fountain - was packedddddddd.

Just a random funny one - Would have been fun to ride a tandem

Rome Team Q&A

After so many years of not going on a cycling trip and not even seeing each other - we are getting the squad back together so we thought of putting together some questions like we did on our first trip... let's see what everyone had to say.

After 5+ years, why are you going on another cycling trip?

Matty Bhai: Because Steve kept asking, geez . In all seriousness, I’ve missed cycling abroad during the pandemic and it’s also a great reason to get myself motivated and into the gym to lose those covid curves. Any unnecessary kilograms that I don’t need will help with the Italian mountains that await. Additionally, the past cycle trips in India and Spain were such great fun, I’ve missed the stories and adventures we make plus photos which we still look back on today. 

El Flato: I really want to break my one day flat tire record of 21..:). At 71 you have to do all the fun things you can before you can't. The people on the first trip were great and I really enjoyed their company and they are going again on this trip.. Loved seeing new things and pushing myself physically.

Shruts: FOMO, I didn't want to miss out on all the fun and the suffering the team is going to endure lol. Also, I figured life is too short to spend all my time sitting in my work chair anyway, so why not trade it in for a bike saddle and some beautiful scenery?

SB: I feel like a cheat, I've actually done 3 additional tours since our last one in Spain. I've done the coast of Portugal twice with my wife and then another with wifey and her bro and wife and i did a hell of a solo from Madrid Spain to Porto Portugal and down to Lisbon. 600 miles and 6 days of cycling - no breaks... but it broke me. One day i had to take a train the length of that day. BUT to get to the question 😁There are a few reasons, a cycling tour is the closest thing that I will get to an actual old timey adventure/safari/exploration - whatever you want to call it, it is about relying on yourself to power you through far away lands, suffer and come out the other side successful. I also love to see new locales, eat different foods and be outside in nature. I am always ready for a cycling trip - especially with this group.

You have a few trips experience under your belt - what are you most looking forward to?

Matty Bhai: Cycling along the nicely paved roads with the wind whistling through my helmet and shirt ensuring we stick to the route. This time we have opted for hotels which I’m hoping are nice and comfortable with ample breakfast buffets to kick off the day. 

El Flato: Riding roads in new countries seeing different people and places. Having fun and great new experiences. Of course breaking my flat tire record. :) Spending time with my son.

Shruts: I'm most looking forward to eating risotto every day for lunch and pizza for dinner. Sure, we could focus on the beautiful roads, the fresh air, etc etc, but let's be real - it's all about the carbs. And Speaking of carbs, Steve has been eating less to prep for the ride, I can only imagine how excited he'll be to finally eat some real Italian food.

SB: I'm most looking forward to 3 things - 1. seeing my teammates after so many years - and my dad and being in this type of adventure/situation with them. 2. being back in Italy and France after 22 years! Love both locations and I have never been back. Last time I was a pedestrian, now I am a cyclist. 3. The freedom of cycling - no one calls you, texts you, asked you to unclog a drain or fix a problem - it is pure escapeism from tech and the world, while exercising in a beautiful location[ hopefully without rain ]

What is your biggest fear for the trip?

Matty Bhai: Creepy statues lurking in basements or odd alcoves of hotels! I’ve spent too many nights in haunted rooms with or without fake goggle eyes glued to priceless antique pictures. Also probably hoping El Flato doesn’t break his record of 27 flat types during the trip lol. 

El Flato: Hills , Hills and more Hills. Also being older hope I don't slow down the guys. That Steve really wants a early inheritance and routed more hills. As you can see I have a hill phobia from last trip :)

Shruts: The first is the fear of being the slow one and holding back the team. I have been strength training, running, indoor biking, and occasionally outdoor biking but I think I could have trained more / better. The second thing that gives me the chills is the thought of cold, rainy weather. I learned my lesson in Spain when I was miserable and drenched from head to toe on Day 1. So this time, I'm not taking any chances - I'll be packing my rain jacket, rain trousers, and windbreaker jacket. I may look like a trash bag (will miss my fencer avatar from Spain), but at least I'll be dry and warm.

SB: My biggest fear is always the same - that someone gets hurt. We have planned for months, the actual concept of the trip is pretty simple, keep pedaling from point A to point B, drink coffee, eat way too many cakes and have a great time. There is nothing really to worry about because we all stick together and we will finish... eventually.

What are you going to make sure you change on this trip that you might have done on a previous trip?

Matty Bhai: My underwear, which is always advisable. This trip I’ll also bring chamois crème to avoid any irritation to the important parts. 

El Flato: Bring less stuff. Bring more lights. I assume the rental bikes will have working lights but I sent away for the headbands that have bright lights on them just in case hope they work. Take more time to see the sights. On my first trip I was just focused on finishing and staying up with the young guys and gals.

Shruts: I have been told that I overpacked on my previous trips, so this time around I'm determined to pack light. It won't be easy wearing the same outfit every other day. But challenge accepted.

SB: Two things, 1. we will absolutely spend more time checking out some sites/sights as we pass through towns. There is NO WAY we will miss Pisa. 2. I vow to bring sunscreen and lipbalm! I literally forget to bring this on every trip... and then I get sun or wind burned.

What item that you packed do you think will be your most handy?

Matty Bhai: Lights during our previous trip from Barcelona to Tarifa, I was the only one with working lights and had to hang at the back to ensure we didn’t get run over. My multi tool is also an essential item. I went for a lightweight model (TopPeak Mini Pro) with a chain breaker and tyre levers on the sides - Highly recommend! 

El Flato: phone and universal charger. Also the lights I hope. Spare tires. I hope 20 will be enough this trip :)

Shruts: I haven't even started packing yet. Time flies, and we're only 15 days away from the trip. But if I had to choose one item that I know will come in handy, it would have to be my down jacket. As long as I have my jacket to keep me warm, I think I'll be just fine. Oh and also I am getting extra tubes for the group or maybe just for Leon/El Flato lol

SB: I think the mobile phone will be the most handy. 2nd handiest will be the charging equipment and as a 3rd - cycling shorts. Between the anti rub and the padded bottoms, life savers!!!

What do you want to do on this trip to make sure it is a success?

Matty Bhai: Make it to the end in one piece lol! Having navigated the team out of some sticky situations previously, I’ll be reviewing the routing as we go and comparing to trusted Google on my phone

El Flato: Make sure everyone is having fun.  Make sure I am having fun. have Steve and Matty Bhai breaking the wind:) Not riding so late. Seeing more of the countries.

Shruts: I want to make sure I finish every single day of this trip without skipping a day. 

As for making sure the trip is a success, I think we're in pretty good shape. We've done all the pre-work, routing, planning, and bookings, so now it's just a matter of executing our plan and having fun while doing it. 

SB: I agree with all of my teammates - all of us making it in one piece, me breaking wind [ strange ask from my dad - I think be means drafting, but I will try to break as much wind as possible ] and finishing every day. I think I have to go back to a previous answer and really just enjoy the freedom of the trip and see a lot more sights.

What advice would you give someone doing a bicycle tour for the first time?

Matty Bhai: Ensure you plan out your route including elevation and where you are planning to stay along with transport options should you need to return to the start via car/train/bus/plane/horse etc. 

El Flato: It depends on the first trip. If it was like mine get into shape it helps. Get a seat that is comfortable. Riding several hundred miles on a bad seat is no fun.  Use body lotion to prevent body parts from rubbing. :) Bring good lights. Go with a tour or map out a good route before you go and check the elevations. Don't believe your son when he says oh the hills are not that bad. Sorry phobia showing :)

Shruts: Besides all the great advice the other scorchers have listed, I would say finding a great team to go with is key, especially if you're not doing it solo. I am so grateful for this group as I learned a ton during the other two trips and I know they'll have my back and bags during the ride lol

SB: I think it boils down to a few things, be honest with yourself on how far and what type of cycle trip you want. If you are looking to go slow and drink coffee and meander, make sure you pick a spot and distance that will let you do that. Definitely overplan, over think and over route - there is always a sticky situation and this helps. Personally I would say for the first trip, stay in hotels from night to night. You get all the ammenities, dont have to deal with home owners - get keys, it is such a pain. I will never do airbnbs again. PAINFUL! Pick like minded tourmates that you get along with and enjoy the company of. And most importantly make sure your bike and gear are up for the job. It doesnt have to be expensive - but it has to work!